Guide to
St Nicolas Church, Cranleigh

As you will see, the road sign leading to
the village indicates that Cranleigh is the largest village in
England. The sign also states that Cranleigh has a Medieval
church - which is of course St Nicolas Parish Church.
Cranleigh is situated some 10 miles south-east of Guildford in
the county of Surrey not far from the Sussex border.
For further information about local businesses and activities
in Cranleigh village visit www.cranleighvillage.net
We hope that you will be able to enjoy a visit to our beautiful
church. St Nicolas Church is first and foremost a house
of worship, and we can be thankful that it is possible to praise
God in such beautiful surroundings. If you can, please
join us at one of our services - the details of which are given
on a separate Services page.
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A
Little History
When the Church of St Nicolas was
first built, Cranley (as it was then spelt) was a tiny hamlet
in a clearing of the great forest of the Weald. The villagers
were retainers or tenants of the great feudal estates, the largest
of which was Vachery. One of the duties of the Lord of
the Manor was to provide a place of worship, and so the first
church was built around the year 1170.
At first a simple rectangle occupying the
area of the present nave, it was enlarged later in the 12th century
by the addition of side aisles and a tower. About 1340
a new chancel was built. The area was very popular with
the early Plantagenet Kings and several local families played
a part in affairs of state.
The
Font
As you enter the church you will
see the Font which dates from the 12th century, although the
stone carving is a later copy. The window behind is a reminder
of various patrons and benefactors of the living, including Edward
IV of the House of York, and Henry VII of the House of Tudor.
The
Tower
Note the impressive pattern made
by the beams and rafters against the white surface. In the centre
you can see a trap door which is never opened unless a bell has
to be brought up or down. This was last used when the bells were
rehung for the Millennium as part of the restoration work.
In 1552 there were four bells, the largest
weighing 17 cwt (865 kg). There is now a peal of eight bells
which were recast by Gillett and Johnson in 1954. To view,
save or print details of the Bells in pdf format please click
here
The
Nave
Notice the striking amount of light
falling through the plain windows at the East end of the church.
This dates from 1944 when a flying bomb exploded some seventy
yards to the North-East, destroying the Church Room and Infant
School, and doing considerable damage to the Church. Of the fourteen
stained-glass windows, only three on the south side were preserved.
Walk
up the centre of the Church. As you arrive level with the two
pillars, surmounted by a statue of
St John on your left, and St Nicolas on your right, you will
have been walking very slightly uphill (the slope is 1:80).
In ancient times the altar would have been just in front of you.
It was mounted on a step which has now disappeared and
has been lost in the slope of the floor.
Look up and see the trussed-rafter roof with its massive tie-beams.
The Lectern is unusual. It has a rather heavy strapped
pediment and supporting column, carved in the shape of a twisted
stem. It is probably Dutch or German in origin and dates
from the 16th century.
The
Chancel
The screen and rood loft which
separated the chancel from the nave were removed in the early
part of the 19th century. Only the vertical grooves in
the columns where its woodwork fitted remain. Between 1840
and 1868 extensive restoration work was carried out, including
rebuilding the chancel, with its larger windows and magnificent
hammer-beam roof. The carved heads show delightful expressions
- one of them looks so angry as hardly to be human at all.
The brass cross between the choir stalls
is in memory of John Sapte, Rector from 1846 to 1906. Behind
the altar there are Flemish brass panels (c 1565), and to the
left there is an English brass of some importance, which shows
an unusual depiction of the Resurrection. The armoral shields
behind the altar are those of the families associated with the
estate of Baynards, Vachery and Knowle. On the other side,
and on the floor, you can see under the credence table a brass
of Richard Caryngton, a former Rector.
A noteworthy feature of the Chancel is
the 14th century sedilia set in the south wall. The piscina
is also 14th century but may have been redesigned in the 19th
century.
The altar rails were given in 1937. They are modelled on the
Old English iron-wrought rails formerly in Uxbridge Church, now
in the South Kensington Museum. As you leave the Chancel,
have a look a the pulpit. The panels are from the 14th
century screen which demarked the Vachery Chapel, previously
in the North Transept.
The
North Transept
On the north side of the pillar is a 12th century
carving known as the "Cheshire Cat" reputed to have
been the inspiration for the character in Lewis Carroll's Alice
in Wonderland.
On the north side too, there was formerly a chapel (Vachery
chantry). Also worth looking at are the small statue (by Edgar
MacKennel) erected as a memorial to Amy Bonham by her mother;
and also Joseph Longhurst's painting of "The Nativity".
The
South Transept (Baynards' Chapel)
The wooden screen, which formerly
separated the nave from the Lady Chapel, was moved to screen
off the Victorian Gothic Baynards' Chapel in 1867 when the latter
was built.
On the south side of the pillar you will see a carved head. Some
say it is Bishop Egynton of Winchester, 1346-1366, or his better
known successor William of Wykeham. His coat of arms (Manners
makyth man) can be seen in the window near the font.
The
Organ at St Nicolas
The organ was originally built by William Hill & Sons in
1875 and most of the pipework is original. At that time the organ
had a tracker (mechanical) action with the console positioned
on the north side of the chancel under the pipes.
By 1956 the organ was in poor condition
and it was rebuilt by Hill, Norman and Beard. The Swell organ,
Pedal organ and couplers were converted to electric or electro-pneumatic
action (with the tracker action retained on the Great), the draw
stops were replaced with stop tabs, some Swell Contra Oboe extensions
were added, and the Great Dulciana was replaced with a Quint
(which blended poorly).
The organ was thoroughly cleaned in 1974
and the Cornopean revoiced in 1987, but by the end of the 1980s
the electrical relays were failing and the organ required a complete
overhaul. A major reconstruction was completed in October 1993
by Browns of Canterbury and the opportunity was taken to address
other faults: the organ lacked brilliance and spoke into the
Chancel rather than down the nave. Several new stops were added,
the ranks were rearranged in the organ chamber and extended out
into the North transept to improve projection down the church,
and a new detached console was installed south of the crossing
with a new electric action throughout.
To view, save or print the organ specification
in pdf format, including notes on the extent of the work carried
out in 1993, please click
here
The
Jubilee Window
It was a real joy, after nearly five years of waiting, and having
had the new stone mullioned window carved and installed in the
tower, to see the new stained glass window completed. Having
invited various artists in the early days to design a window
which would celebrate the Queen's Golden Jubilee, it took us
quite a while to find an artist who seemed to have the inspiration
to create a window that not only would show a sense of rejoicing
but would be both traditional and modern in its conception.
For Philippa Martin Stained Glass it has been a labour
of love and she has given so much time in bringing the project
to fruition. There is much to see in the window, and
it is really worth studying the printed card which explains the
significance and meaning of the design.
We had a lovely service on the
Sunday 29 April 2007, when Philippa
and her family joined us for our morning worship. She brought
her two granddaughters, Emily and Lily, Photo by Michael Wild
who feature in the top part of the window.
We were able to express our thanks to her on that occasion, and
later on in the year we were privileged to have a proper service
of dedication, in the presence of HRH The Duchess of Wessex.
This not only combined thanks for the window, but for all the
generosity of the people in the parish who enabled us to do the
work, which began with the 'Crackin' Good Tower Appeal'.
The
Porch and Lych Gate
Both the porch and the lych gate
were designed by Henry Woodyer. The Porch was erected in 1864
in memory of a local doctor, Jacob Ellery of Ridinghurst who
also set up the obelisk on the corner of the Ewhurst Road. The
splendid stone lych gate was erected in 1880 as a memorial to
John Bradshaw of Knowle.
The
Churchyard
As you leave the Church glance
at the tower. It has a roof in the shape of a pyramid called
a "Sussex Head". Notice particularly the "put-log"
holes. These were used to support the scaffolding when
the church was first built and are rare in England. The
original Church was constructed of a mixture of ironstone and
Bargate stone, both of which were available locally.
Several of the Sunday School children can
claim to have touched the weather cock - but only when it was
blown down in the storm of October 1987! The date 1702
is carved on the West Door, but the hinges suggest that it is
rather older. One of the tombs at the back of the churchyard
reputed to be the "smuggler's tomb" where contraband
was concealed. A very weather-beaten stone on the south
wall dating from the 17th century was in memory of a yeoman,
Richard Mower, who discovered the use of lime for lightening
the heavy clay soil. One of the workmen in 1847 left his
name (a well-known Cranleigh name) carved on one of the chancel
buttresses.
On your right as you walk down the path is a magnificent Cedar
of Lebanon tree. It is said that John Sapte planted it
in about 1850 when he returned from his honeymoon in the Holy
Land. Also on your right is a wooden "bed-head"
grave marker among the many interesting stone and iron ones.

Floodlights
St Nicolas Church was pleased to be one of 400 churches throughout
the country to be awarded a grant by The Church Floodlighting
Trust towards the cost of installing floodlighting in time for
the Millennium celebrations.
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